slosh: the config watcher speaks kqueue on macOS

There is no inotify to port to, so the watcher grows a second native
backend: kqueue's EVFILT_VNODE, feeding the same pollable fd that
server_run() already watches. Vnode events are per-inode, so each
config file is watched twice -- via its directory (catching the
temp-file-then-rename most editors do, and files appearing for the
first time) and via the file itself (catching in-place rewrites).
Either event triggers the same debounced re-read as on Linux, which
re-registers the watches and so survives the rename swapping the
inode out from under us.

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